The purpose of this study was to evaluate the safety of Kalanchoe brasiliensis extract, followed by the development of an oil in water emulsion containing the K. brasiliensis leaves extract and evaluating its clinical moisturizing efficacy. The formulations containing sodium acrylates/ Beheneth-25 methacrylate Crosspolymer (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) lauryl glucoside and 0.5% of extract were prepared. The extract was considered as non-irritating through skin irritant tests. The stability testing was carried out in different conditions for 90 days. The skin hydration was measured by capacitance measurement and transepidermal water loss using biophysical techniques. The results indicate that the formulation containing 0.5% of extract increased the hydration of the stratum corneum up to 5 h after application on the forearm. The transepidermal water loss was reduced when compared to the untreated area and placebo area. Therefore, we can conclude that the increased skin hydration and protection of barrier function can be attributed to the K. brasiliensis extract. This research presents a new raw material from the Brazilian Caatinga biome and shows its possible application in the development of cosmetic products.

ABSTRACT The aim of this work was the obtainment of Opuntia fícus-indica (L.) Mill extract for the development of cosmetic formulations and in vivo evaluation of its moisturizing effects. The formulations were tested for preliminary and accelerated stability. Organoleptic characteristics, pH values and rheological behavior were assessed. The evaluation of moisturizing efficacy of the emulsions formulated with 3.0% of Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 containing 1.0 and 3.0% of O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract (EHG001) was performed using the capacitance method (Corneometer(r)) and the transepidermal water loss - TEWL evaluation (Tewameter(r)). The emulsions formulated were stable, exhibiting pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior. The results of evaluation of moisturizing efficacy showed increased skin hydration after five hours by mainly increasing the skin barrier effect. The formulations containing 1.0 and 3.0% of EHG001 enhanced the skin barrier effect by reducing TEWL up to four hours after application. The results observed suggest that O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract may act through a humectant and occlusion mechanism.

O objetivo do nosso trabalho foi desenvolver um método para avaliação da concentração do ±-tocoferol, considerado o antioxidante lipofílico de maior importância, e do 4-nerolidilcatecol (4-NC), uma substância natural com comprovada ação antioxidante in vitro e in vivo, em matriz biológica (homogeneizado de pele). Utilizamos a cromatografia de alta eficiência acoplada a um detector eletroquímico, sendo que o método apresentou linearidade para as concentrações de 0,025 µg/mL a 0,1 µg/mL para o ±-T (tempo de retenção 3, 4 min) e de 0,15 µg/mL a 2,5 µg/mL para o 4-NC (tempo de retenção 2,06 min), dissolvidos em etanol e etanol:água (1:1). A taxa de recuperação do ±-T adicionado nas concentrações de 0,5; 0,1 e 0,025 µg/mL aos homogeneizados de pele foi de 94,03; 111,2 e 80,7%, respectivamente. A taxa de recuperação de 4-NC adicionado nas concentrações de 2,5; 0,625 e 0,156 µg/mL foi de 103,7; 91,7 e 91,7%. Este método analítico foi e está sendo empregado, com sucesso devido à sua precisão e rapidez, em diversas análises do laboratório.

Topical administration of antioxidants, such as ±-tocopherol (±-T), provides an efficient manner of enriching the endogenous cutaneous protection system, and it constitutes a successful strategy for diminishing the ultraviolet radiation-mediated oxidative damage. Besides ±-tocopherol the use of other natural occurring compounds with antioxidant activity has been proposed for the same purpose. The aim of this study was to develop a validated analytical method for the determination of a-tocopherol and 4-nerolidylcathecol (4-NC) concentrations in skin homogenates in a pharmaceutical formulations. We employed liquid chromatography with electrochemical detection. Chromatography was performed on a Supelcosil LC-8, 3 mm, 75x4.6 mm column (Supelco, Bellefonte, PA, USA) with a mobile phase of methanol:water (9:1) for 4-NC and (95:5) for a-T, both containing 20 mM LiClO4 and 2 mM KCl. The flow rate was set at 1.0 ml/min. We established validation parameters including sensitivity, precision, accuracy, stability and found a linear relationship between the concentrations ranges of 0.025 µg/mL to 0.1 µg/mL of ±-T and 0.15 mg/mL to 2.5 mg/mL of 4-NC. The recovery of ±-T from skin homogenates was 94.03, 111.2 and 80.7% for the concentrations of 0.5, 0.1 and 0.025 µg/mL respectively. The recovery for the following concentrations of 4-NC: 2.5, 0.625 and 0.156 µg/mL was 103.7, 91.7 and 91.7%. This analytical procedure has been successfully employed in cutaneous permeation studies, antioxidant activity studies and determinations of 4-NC in Pothomorphe umbellata root extracts.